Three Passes Trek — The Great Sojourn

121 - Lukla to Tengboche (Three Passes Trek, Nepal)

A funny thing happened en route to Tengboche, something difficult to describe. I think it only happens when you’re alone and somewhat unguarded. Per usual, I took a less-traveled route, which led back to the Hotel Everest View and then along a ridge that was more of a yak trail than a trekking path. I was struck by an odd awareness, a presence that gripped hold and wouldn’t let go.

It’s safe to say there’s an underlying energy or force pervading the universe and everything in it. The source. The terminus. The beginning. The end. It has a thousand different names ascribed by a thousand different peoples…

Nepal, Batch 21by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacJanuary 22, 2020Nepal, Three Passes Trek, Lukla, Namche Bazaar, Tengboche

122 - Tengboche to Dingboche (Three Passes Trek, Nepal)

Back at my lodge, I experienced what was to become a familiar sentiment from guides along the trail. There’s an undercurrent of resentment toward lone wolves hitting the trail without a guide who choose to carry their belongings. They view it as depriving a Nepali guide or porter of much-needed income while leeching off the well-tread paths established by years of Sherpa diligence. There’s merit to this, which is why I made every effort to hire a guide before leaving Kathmandu, visiting a dizzying number of trekking agencies.

No one would consider my needs, damn it. (Therapy, anyone?) They were all hell-bent on standard itineraries with zero room…

Nepal, Batch 21by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacJanuary 21, 2020Nepal, Three Passes Trek, Dingboche, Nangkartshang

124 - Kongma La (Three Passes Trek, Nepal)

I can’t deny it. Going it alone made me nervous. It also adrenalized the shit out of me. Would I get lost? Be eaten by a yeti? Hit by a meteorite? Those were the obvious risks, but my trepidation centered on the mundane—altitude sickness, broken ankle, cuts, scrapes, tooth decay, painful gas, etc. In tandem with a fellow adventurer, the risk was mitigated, but alone, a minor obstacle could turn deadly, especially if I were the only person to cross that day. It’s wise to bring a buddy. Really. I had no buddy. Me, myself, and I. Would I prefer a compadre and/or guide? You bet your ass. But we work with what we have…

Batch 21, Nepalby Mr. Nos T. O'maniacJanuary 19, 2020Kongma La, Nepal, Three Passes Trek

126 - Kala Pattar to Dzongla (Three Passes Trek, Nepal)

You can’t actually see Mt. Everest from Everest Base Camp. Kala Pattar is the designated viewpoint, though it’s not ideal either. Anybody who’s somebody goes there for their panoramic fix. I’m somebody, right? Yes, yes, I am.

See the sunrise. See that fucking sunrise, ya heard? Everywhere you go, the sunrise is king. See it or else. It's cloudy? You're sick? Nuclear winter? Doesn't matter. Don’t be an asshole. Behold the sunrise. Notwithstanding brilliant matutinal reflections…

Nepal, Batch 22by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacJanuary 17, 2020Kala Pattar, Dzongla, Three Passes Trek, Nepal, Khumbu Region

127 - Cho La - Dzongla to Gokyo (Three Passes Trek, Nepal)

The beginning wasn’t so auspicious for Double Rich. The snow led to deviations, but the valley narrows as you progress, forcing even the most moronic of morons in the right direction. It was swell to have a partner in ineptitude for a change. Other Rich did enough worrying for both of us. The weather was beautiful, the scenery epic. I relaxed somewhat, knowing if the shit hit the fan, at least we had each other.

Other Rich was super friendly and personable. He was also about as exciting as a dry donut. I believe exhaustion and dehydration…

Nepal, Batch 22by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacJanuary 16, 2020Cho La, Dzongla, Gokyo, Nepal, Three Passes Trek

128 - Gokyo to Lukla (Three Passes Trek, Nepal)

After breakfast, Gokyo Ri was the order of the day. The challenge was more than I’d anticipated for two reasons: 1) the aforementioned snow; and 2) the intensity of solar radiation. The snow and ice were no picnic, but nothing compared to the heat. The days’ haze and thin cloud cover intensified the ultraviolet energy. Slow, steady movements mitigated overheating potential. Pants were a mistake. I wouldn’t have been uncomfortable in a speedo (only ashamed). Such a maneuver would’ve required gobs and gobs of sun cream. The temp on the mountain might well have topped 60℉ (15℃)…

Nepal, Batch 22by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacJanuary 14, 2020Nepal, Three Passes Trek, Thame, Apa Sherpa, Khumbu Region