Zaqatala — The Great Sojourn — theNOSTOMANIAC.com

135 - Martial Artistry & Ye Old Church (Near Zaqatala, Azerbaijan)

The turnout was modest, a consequence of relentless rain (the likely explanation for Mr. Judo Master's absence). Folks, as in a few males of varying ages, showed up in the belief a martial arts expert would share his story followed by a demonstration. One volunteer wanted me to impersonate said Judo master, performing my own creative martial arts exhibition. Although intrigued by the thought of such comical subterfuge, I wasn’t comfortable with it. Besides the threat of destroying the credibility of the volunteers…

Azerbaijan, Batch 23by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacJanuary 6, 2020Azerbaijan, Zaqatala

137- Mystery In The Mountains (Zaqatala, Azerbaijan)

Though given directions by my Peace Corps sherpas, I managed to miss the mark and bypass the trailhead. I could see my target from afar, so this was of little import. For my insolence, I was forced to cross a river, cut through someone’s backyard, and surmount the steepest hill I could find. Thankfully, the journey was the destination. The forests of northwest Azerbaijan resemble my conception of Robin Hood’s stomping ground. Elfin villages wouldn’t be misplaced, and a “Smurf Crossing” sign would certainly blend…

Azerbaijan, Batch 24by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacJanuary 4, 2020Zaqatala, Azerbaijan

139 - Foothills of the Caucasus - Part I (Near Zaqatala, Azerbaijan)

And then came our run-in with the authorities. At a village stop, Colonel Azerbaijan entered the A.A.V and interviewed us. El Jefe started with me but veered towards Amy when presented with my vapid “I’m-with-her” smile. He examined our passports, then informed her we needed permission to be in the area a la some registration form. She, politely and with diplomatic deftness, gave him the “What-the-fuck-are-you-talking-about' routine. Registration?…

Azerbaijan, Batch 24by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacJanuary 1, 2020Azerbaijan, Zaqatala, Cimcimax

140 - Foothills of the Caucasus - Part II (Near Zaqatala, Azerbaijan)

We strolled to his humble abode through an actual ghost town. Most houses were abandoned, unsuitable even for phantoms. I tried to imagine the palpable eeriness of the wee hours, deciding the scene was the perfect setting for a horror film. At Arif's home, his cousin , Letif, ushered us up the ladder stairs to the second floor. They were downright giddy, falling over themselves in the name of hospitality, literally in Letif's case. He tumbled down the stairs…

Azerbaijan, Batch 24by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacDecember 31, 2019Azerbaijan, Zaqatala, Cimcimax, Caucasus, qalal