165 - Jesus Incognito (Tunis, Tunisia)
TUNISIA IS 98% SUNNI MUSLIM. To a Christian missionary, that’s either a futile enterprise or one hell of an opportunity. Think of all the potential converts. Fish in a barrel. Only one problem. It’s illegal for non-Muslims to proselytize Muslims. Missionary groups are allowed in but not allowed to go full throttle, at least not with the “yet to be convinced.” They can preach to the choir, but that’s it. And even then, the government places strict requirements on gatherings. No parades or processions. No public expressions of faith. No door-to-door. It is legal for a Muslim to convert to another religion, just not at the behest of a non-Muslim.
Sooooooo… you’re allowed to be a non-Muslim. Muslims can convert, but it must be organic certified. Non-Muslims can practice their faith, but aren’t allowed to proselytize. Non-Muslim foreigners can enter the country but aren’t allowed to conduct missionary activities with those outside their faith. Gray areas and blurred lines, ya heard. See where I'm headed with this?
Ashraf, a Tunisian comrade I met via Couchsurfing.com, invited me to an English club established by a group of young Americans from Texas. The club’s professed aim was to accelerate a cultural exchange and give Tunisians studying English a chance to practice with native speakers. Super. The group met in a courtyard inside Tunis' medina. From the onset, my Spidey-sense tingled. I could tell from the moment I was introduced to a fellow American, “outsiders” weren’t welcome. And the way a female Texan addressed the group standing on a chair seemed like she was speaking to a class of first-graders. That, in and of itself, wasn’t suspicious considering an audience of non-native English speakers. Still, the scene had a preachy condescension vibe that made me uneasy. After engaging with a few Tunisians in attendance, I realized why.
It starts with casual meet-ups. As Team Texas becomes better acquainted with their Tunisian counterparts, more intimate contact ensues (coffee dates, dinner invitations, etc.). At some point, when a member of Jesus Incognito (my name, not theirs) is confident their potential convert won’t report them, out comes the Bible and a little, “Praise Jeee-sus!”
A Tunisian woman thought I was a crew member. This explained questions like “What do you think of Islam” followed by an explanation of its superiority (i.e. the true path). Um, awkward. Once she realized I wasn’t part of the Christian Get-Along-Gang, she shared her experiences, explaining the indoctrination process. J.I. cast members slowly introduce their beliefs to possible “candidates” with English practice, fun and games, coffee, dinner, and then Jesus.
Blurred lines and gray areas. Missionary groups (mostly Catholic) exploit the ambiguity, pushing the envelope to further the crusade. Their somewhat cavalier stance is bolstered by a historical agreement between the Holy See and Tunisia’s government dating back to the ‘60s when the Apostolic Nunciature to Tunisia (diplomatic mission) was established. This agreement provided legal certainty with restrictions, a position that holds today and serves as the basis of missionary activity (legal or otherwise). The Catholic Church’s charitable largesse to locals helps foster tolerance.
Many organizations seem to interpret all this as a kind of “wink, wink, nudge, nudge” scenario. Religious persecution and discrimination against Christians in Tunisia are credible threats, especially in light of all the cultural and political turmoil of the last decade or so. I applaud efforts to improve conditions, but groups like the one I encountered take it too far, in my most humble opinion. Team Jesus had ties to an affiliated group in the USA, though I never did find out specifics. From what I’ve read, there’s a constant revolving door of volunteers coming to Tunis to live and work.
Their efforts were (are?) somewhat brazen, as it doesn’t take Sherlock Holmes to spot their ulterior motive. This probably explains J.I.'s preferred ban on outsiders. My Tunisian pal was told not to bring other Americans next time. I couldn’t ignore the risk these misguided zealots were taking. How big a risk? Well, though technically committing a crime as soon as they whip out a bible, it’s likely not something that would’ve been addressed directly, depending on the intensity of proselytization. Instead, reprimands would come in the form of denied visa renewals or kind “invitations” to exit the country. (This may have changed since my visit.) Granted, the legal distinction between “discussing” and “proselytizing” may be fuzzy, but I’m not sure it’s worth the risk. J.I. clearly disagrees.
I can’t lie. This shit pisses me off. When you consider how many in the Arab world are suspicious of US motives to begin with, it’s unsettling to ponder potential consequences. Does this not play into the “conspiracy of the West” to stamp out Islam and replace it with Christianity or Judaism? We have enough PR issues without Bible-thumpers confirming what radical elements in the Muslim world have been saying for years. They’re doing more harm than good, fostering an atmosphere of suspicion and mistrust. Call me crazy, but I think their resources could be focused elsewhere. Then again, who the hell am I? Satan. That’s who.