169 - Two If By Fiat Punto (Tunis, Tunisia)
"I think the only way to get through this life is laughing hard and constantly, mostly at myself."
— Shannon Hale
[A strange thing happened since my Tunisia visit—the world lost its shit. Even before Covid upended our world, the Arab Spring upended the Middle East. Leslie and I missed the “festivities” by about a month. Some would say we dodged a bullet, but I can’t help feeling like we missed the boat. How often do you have the chance to watch history unfold from the front row? Yes, I could almost taste repression in the air, but if you told me the powder keg was about to ignite, I’d have been incredulous in the extreme. Yet, there it was, boiling just beneath the surface.]
HAN SOLO NO MORE. I met Leslie in cyberspace, so to speak. By some freak algorithmic anomaly, she found my blog online. And she liked it. She really liked it. Our correspondence escalated to friendship and then a mutual desire to put a three-dimensional face to the name. In a nutshell, she put her life on hold and forayed into the unknown. For better or worse, I believe my counsel pushed her across the Rubicon. Our chance encounter enriched my life immeasurably, as I hope it did hers. But let’s not get ahead of ourselves…
Her first stop was Istanbul, Turkey. She spent a month exploring the ‘bul and then the island of Bozcaada before we connected in Tunis. Our initial e-mail exchanges in the months leading to our rendezvous epitomize our life philosophies and the insecurities hovering over our mutual decisions to globe-trot on a semi-permanent basis. Reading those e-mails evokes powerful emotions, and though it’s a tad self-indulgent, I’ve provided the full transcript at the bottom of this post. You can sense us finding each other—two lost souls connecting in the ether… net. Pardon me, do you have the other half of this amulet?
I met Leslie at the airport, fearing her taxi driver might commit a ritual fare screwing, as they’re notorious for such. Initially, we were told the fare would be 15 dinar ($10), but after voicing my displeasure, the meter was engaged. In the backseat, I watched as Mr. Cabby Man surreptitiously pushed buttons to increase the fare each time he placed his hand on the gear shift, adroitly employing a sub rosa knuckle technique. Naughty cabbie. I decided it’d be better to wait until we arrived in central Tunis before airing a grievance.
I’m pretty sure he never saw it coming, and though the language barrier was formidable, he got the message after I pointed at the meter (it read almost exactly 15 dinar) and screamed “Bullshit.” I was anything but subtle, yelling for assistance from a nearby traffic cop. By this time, our cab driver had readjusted the meter to read about six dinar. This made me chuckle. The cop wasn’t as sympathetic as I would’ve hoped, but my action did have the intended effect. Neither Leslie, myself, nor the driver, had change, so all was for naught—ten dinar to the victor. I had to settle for a moral victory.
What was the actual fare? Around three to six dinar, depending on the time of day. (Fares are higher at night). Why would I attract police attention? Well, from what I understood, great pains were taken to protect tourist sensibilities and preserve appearances. Theoretically, the police could be helpful. After I had my wallet stolen, I was told to file a report, as items are often recovered. I had already canceled my ATM and credit card, so I decided the hassle wouldn’t justify the reward, but I remembered the advice.
As I view my actions through the prism of hindsight, I believe they were a smidgen over the top. Sure, he was trying to bilk ignorant Americans out of a few bucks. Would he have attempted this with a local? Nope. And, yes, letting him get away with it forges a path for future screwees. Even so, when you consider all that was about to occur after my departure, and how desperate folks were at the time, giving the cab driver an extra five spot would not, in my most humble opinion, have been such a violation of the traveler's creed. If I had it to do over again? I would’ve acknowledged his dastardly scheme, punctuated my discovery with a supercilious grin accompanied by a finger wag, and “donated” extra dinar. I would’ve let him know I knew that he knew that I knew he was screwing me, but was willing to support his “cause” for the sake of prosperity. In short, I was a bigger douchebag than I needed to be. Was I subconsciously flexing for my cute travel chum? If I were a bettin’ man…
After high-level discussions, we agreed renting a car would be the best way to experience Tunisia, essential if you want to get the most out of your trip. I'd met a German couple in Matmata who told me car rentals were cheap and hassle-free, at least from Hertz. I can confirm this intel. We arose early the day after Leslie's arrival and headed to the Hertz airport office. (No taxi tomfoolery this time). We secured a shiny white Fiat Punto for ten days at about $30 per day. The plan was simple: Return to hotel. Pack our shit. Head north.
A lack of technical knowledge caused our first snag. We couldn’t figure out how to go backward. Yep, that's right, putting the car in reverse became an insurmountable obstacle. I made this discovery while attempting to park on Avenue Habib Bourguiba. Rebuffed by my own ignorance… sigh. I escaped to the highway and pulled to the shoulder to investigate. Turns out, a ring lever around the gearshift (below the gearknob) had to be lifted to engage reverse. Neither of us had yet to encounter such advanced alien technology. Our collective self-esteem took a serious hit.
If that wasn’t embarrassing enough, we managed to lose our ride. After realizing our dream (i.e. parking on Habib Bourguiba), we checked out of the hotel and hauled our crap back to the car only to discover a woman sitting in the front seat. What’s the meaning of this? It wasn’t our car. The Punto had vanished. Buh-bye. I may have pooped a little. Leslie and I were about to go halfsies on a new car we’d never see again. Yes.
Not stolen. Just towed. Phew! I was aware of the prospect but thought we were in a safe zone, as I didn’t see a “Tow Zone” sign as elsewhere in the vicinity. That woman in “our” car stayed to avoid being towed. Had one of us remained, all would’ve been well. Ooopsie, poopsie.
A cab driver standing nearby said something about where to find it in broken English. We entered an upmarket hotel for clarification. We were referred to a bellhop who informed us he not only knew where the car was, he could retrieve it for us. Less than thirty minutes later, we were on our way. Cost? About $20. Did we get fucked? You betcha. Did we care? No, sir.
Sooooo, a guy dressed in a bellhop uniform shows up to the impound lot with a key, and they allow him to drive away for an undisclosed fee. Riiiight. All rental cars have blue license plates, making them high-value targets. We might as well have painted “Tow This Mutha Fucka” on the windows. The conspiracy theorist within leads me to believe missing signs and helpful bellhops are not coincidental. But, then again, who the hell am I? Not such an auspicious beginning…
“It’s hard to believe that I’ve already been gone for one month. In some respects time is flying, but in others, not so much; this is both good and bad, depending on how you look at it. Either way, the first month has been a positive one. I feel as though my journey is off to a good start and I look forward to whatever lies ahead. I’m finally learning to throw caution to the wind – to shake my pre-planned, overly organized, preemptive ways, and just live one day at a time. Something I’ve struggled to do in the past…
I’m currently safe and sound in Tunis, Tunisia. I’ve been traveling around the country for the past two weeks with my friend Rich, who I mentioned in the previous post. We managed to loop around the country in 12 days – a pretty big accomplishment, if I may say so. There were many bumps along the way, but in the end, our Fiat Punto pulled through for us, making it a successful trip.
We lacked regular internet access while on the road and I neglected to take detailed notes. Recalling the events in their entirety will be a bit challenging, but I’ll do my best. Usually words fly right through my fingertips, but I’ve been struck with a horrible case of writers block – just my luck.
I arrived on the evening of the 7th. Rich was kind enough to meet me at the airport, so I wouldn’t have to deal with taxi drivers’ devious ways. In the end, we still got taken advantage of. The cost for a cab ride from Carthage airport to the city center should cost approximately 5 dinar ( something I didn’t know upon arriving). We agreed to use the meter, but our driver was increasing the amount along the way, assuming we wouldn’t notice. I was completely clueless to the situation and found the whole confrontation rather comical. I’m not exactly sure what the final amount was, but within a few minutes of reaching the city center, we were dropped off on a sidewalk, still several blocks from our hotel, and a cop was involved – Welcome to Tunisia!
After a short night’s sleep we reconvened for breakfast, and then made our way to the Libyan embassy to inquire about getting visas. Currently, you are required to be part of an organized tour to obtain a tourist visa, but we thought we’d give it a shot. Unfortunately, we walked away empty handed. It turns out we can get a 3-day transit visa for crossing into Egypt, though. It’s not what we were hoping for, but something we’ll consider if we decide to head that direction eventually. What happened to, ask and you shall receive?
The rest of the afternoon was spent getting acquainted with the city, wandering around the old medina, and drinking multiple cups of coffee, while listening to Rich recall stories from his past: something I’ve come to really enjoy.
Since our Libyan adventure was out, we moved onto plan B: a two week road trip around the country. We rented a car the next morning, which was surprisingly painless. A quick flash of our passports, a few hundred dinar, and we were on our way, grinning from ear to ear. Little did we know, within the next two hours we would get lost making our way back, end up on the side of the road unable to get our car into reverse, and then get it towed while checking out of our hotel. Awesome.
Now, to our defense, there were no signs or markings that indicated it wasn’t an available spot. After a brief moment of panic, we walked across the street to an upscale hotel and enlisted the help of a bellboy. He asked for our key, 30 dinar, and then told us to wait in the lobby. Twenty minutes later he returned with our car, no questions asked. It was almost too good to be true. The whole transaction was seamless which makes me think it’s a regular occurrence – a tourist trap, perhaps? Either way, we had our car back and that’s all that mattered.
Let the fun begin…”
Leslie Peralta, “Welcome To Tunisia” — Soledad: Notes From My Travels
Email Exchange
LESLIE:
I first came across your blog about six months ago, when I started prepping for my own solo adventure. It's funny, because I feel like I know you, when I obviously don't. Most travel blogs hold my attention for a few paragraphs, but I was pleasantly surprised by yours. So, thank you. Reading your blog has allowed me to get through countless long days at the office and never ending lectures, while still looking busy.
I hope you continue to have a wonderful time in Nepal.
All my best,
Leslie
ME:
Leslie,
Speaking of the pleasantly surprised. I appreciate the e-mail more than you know. There are times when I am sitting somewhere thinking to myself, Rich, what the #$%^ are doing! Get a grip! Usually it is about that time I receive an e-mail or a comment from a friend or stranger praising my efforts. Such correspondence serves to rejuvenate and revitalize me in much needed ways. This is even more so when it comes from someone I've never met. To have a positive affect (however slight) on a total stranger is immensely rewarding. I mentioned in my blog that if you are going to write you really have to do it for yourself. Still, I cannot help feeling grateful that someone is paying attention.
And as far as knowing me, you probably know me just as well as some of my close friends and better than much of my family. The blog has been a conduit of sorts for things I could never bring myself to say aloud. In many ways, the blog is me. Of course, you can never let it all go, but putting thoughts and emotions into words is a sort of catharsis. And now I babble on…
Thank you for reading and again for the e-mail. I really appreciate it.
Sincerely,
Rich
LESLIE:
Rich,
There is something about you that feels strangely familiar for someone I've never met. Maybe, it's because we're both restless souls. I can identify with some of your writing and I think if we were to bump into each other on the road less traveled, we'd probably become fast friends. Having said that, I would love to pick your brain. I'm sure you have better ways to pass the time, but if you feel inclined to respond, please do so.
I've been toying around with the idea of taking a break and traveling for a while. Four weeks at a time is the longest I've been able to get away, without completely dismantling my life. Four weeks used to seem like a decent amount of time, but not anymore. Not for what I want... or need. I'm so close to pulling the trigger, but I would be lying if I told you I didn't have any reservations. To be honest, I'm not sure why I have any. I guess it's fear of change... fear of the unknown. Perhaps it's because I know I'll be going alone. Honestly, I'm not really sure. It's probably a combination of those three things and about a dozen others.
I'm almost twenty-six years old. I have a degree in Political Science, which was a pleasure to obtain, but not that useful. I have what most people would consider a good job. Sure, I'm surrounded by the suit and tie crowd, but it provides for a comfortable life. Absolutely boring, but comfortable, nonetheless. I also own a window-covering installation company, which is even less interesting or fulfilling. I don't want to complain or sound ungrateful, because I am... I'm just not that into it. In fact, I don't think I was ever really into any of it, in the first place. I'm sure most people think I'm an idiot, when I say I have the rest of my life to be grounded, but that's what I keep coming back to. I'm at the point where I'm ready to let it all go... but it's easier said than done.
I watch as my friends are practically racing each other down the aisle. It seems like everyone I know is on the five-year plan: graduate from college, get married, buy a house and start a family. Don't get me wrong, I'm happy for them. I'm just not cutout for that plan. It's not because I don't want those things to be a part of my life, because I might... eventually. To be honest, I don't have the answer to that either. I am certain that I want to enjoy my life and get a better sense of who I am, before I plant roots. I suppose I should give myself a pat on the back for having that part figured out. One down, several to go...
What kind of advice would you offer to someone in my shoes? Do you feel content with where you are and the experiences you've had, thus far? Has the time alone changed your wants/needs/desires for the future? I could fill up this entire page with questions, but I'll draw the line here.
Sincerely,
Leslie
ME:
Leslie,
Good to hear from you again. Unfortunately, at this moment I am about to leave Nepal for Dubai. In the next week or so it will be difficult to answer your questions adequately. I will write to you again when I have a chance but right now I do not have the time to write a proper reply. I apologize for that.
We most definitely have a lot of parallels with one notable exception. You appear to have a fairly good foundation, as in something you can easily return to when you finish globetrotting. I have spent so much time trying to experience everything I've become an expert at nothing. Not such a secure place to be at 35 years of age. But as far as I can tell (I could be wrong) you are in a perfect position to get out there and experience the world. Frankly, I envy you a bit and believe you are all out of excuses. Time to take the plunge.
I am not going to lie to you. You may not find what you are looking for. Life is not that simple. I wish it were but this is not a movie. But even if you do not find 'the answer' I am almost one hundred percent certain you will not regret your choice, even if by some chance you were to have a terrible time. Either way just going for it will be its own kind of reward. You will have given it a shot and that is a hell of a lot more than most people ever do.
We are all victims of our own subjectivity and sometimes it feels a bit like I am running away from something. To be honest the idea of returning to the US and resuming any semblance of a normal life feels like a prison sentence. That might be the child within refusing to grow up. I just don't know but i think about it all the time.
In your case it feels like you may be running towards something, albeit as indescribable as whatever it is as I might be running away from. That is a much better set of circumstances in my most humble opinion. I could be wrong. I could also be full of shit. You should keep that in mind.
You never know, perhaps we could meet up somewhere in some exotic place. You just never know. That previous sentence is exactly why I love traveling so damn much. You just never know.
Imagine, this is the short version. Maybe my time crunch is a good thing as I might babble on in novel form. When I get a chance i will e-mail again (assuming you want more of course). I hope all is well with you. Decisions, decisions.
Rich
P.S. I certainly would not blame you for going the safe route either. There are pros and cons to everything. For me sometimes it feels a little like I never really had a choice and this is what I ought to be doing. That may be a little too fatalistic for my tastes but I guess it is what it is. Who the hell knows, right?
LESLIE:
Please, take your time. If it takes you a few days, a few weeks or even a few months, that's perfectly fine with me. I will be just as pleased today, tomorrow or the next. The last thing I want is for you to feel that your response is an obligation of sorts, when it is clearly not. I'm just appreciative that you would share your thoughts in the first place. The questions I ask are personal and cannot be easily answered, I'm sure. So, please... take all the time you need.
My baby steps are turning into strides. I think my leaving is inevitable. I recognize that anything is possible and I could easily change my mind tomorrow, but at this very moment, I'm finding it hard to dismiss the voice in my head that says... go.
I've worked hard to secure a sturdy foundation. However, it's tied to a life that I don't want to lead and hopefully, won't return to. So, I'm afraid you don't have much to envy. It's that prison sentence you mentioned; my own version of Groundhog Day. Perhaps the inner child is getting the best of me too.
Leslie
P.S. You're probably right, when you say I might not find what I'm looking for (whatever that may be). I've always thought that the answers to the questions we have are concealed somewhere within; it just takes certain people and experiences to bring them out. Maybe that notion is entirely too simple..
ME:
Hey there,
Did not want you to think i had forgotten about you. Pack your bags yet? Inner child, huh? Don't ever shut that kid up. The day he stops speaking to me is the day I am in real trouble.
As for me there are times when I think, What the f#$k am I doing? I truly have no idea what exactly it is I will be doing when it all ends. Don't be like me. Have a fallback plan. i sabotaged my own, probably to ensure i would not return to it. That was not so smart. On the bright side, it saves me the hassle of having to file a tax return.
I guess I would like to believe I am not running away from something but at times I am not so sure. i guess I fear mediocrity more than anything. I went to law school and chucked it down the gutter. i always felt i would probably be a decent, but not a great, lawyer. Likewise for most of the other things I've tried. If i was searching for something I would have to say it is for whatever it is that makes me most like...well...me. A purpose. I guess that is it. It does not have to be grandiose (I am no Mother Theresa), it just has to feel right. So far all I've done is cross things off a list and the list keeps getting longer. Maybe I will get it together by 50. I just read about a women from Georgia claiming to be 129 years old. By that standard I have plenty of time to get my head out of my ass.
The more I travel, the more I learn, and the more I experience it becomes increasingly difficult to define a life worth living. People spend so much time worrying about things that just do not mean jack shit. Want to read a disturbing, albeit informative book (a tad dry), book? Take a look at Collapse by Jared Diamond. Scary.
Take Azerbaijan for example. Without going into the history of it you have a whole generation of Azeris that hate Armenians basically because they have been told to do so. There may be legitimate reasons for animus but people have made the issue so black or white that it is hard to believe that such deep hatred could be justified. I am hesitant about even mentioning “Armenia.” What a waste. (Author’s Note: I was in Azerbaijan at the time. Insert link.)
Ok, enough of that. Ever heard of Couchsurfing? Although I have only done it twice, it has gone well. It is a great way to meet folks in the host nation and save a little dough to boot. Check out the site sometime.
I hope all is well with you. Keep me updated on your progress.
Rich
LESLIE:
I hope this email finds you doing well in Georgia. It's been a while since our last exchange and I'm pleased to report that my decision is official. I wavered for a few weeks, but in the end, I couldn't talk myself out of it. So, I will be leaving Portland in September. My job, as well as my business, will come to a close in August. I thought I would feel a little saddened by the dismantling process, but it's quite the opposite, really. At this point, I just feel relieved.
The details are a little hazy and I'm guessing they will be for a while. It's hard to decide on a starting point, with a never ending list. Part of me thinks it would be wise to start off somewhere familiar, just to get my bearings. What are your thoughts?
I wish I could kick it all to the curb tomorrow, but I'm trying to keep my bridges intact... just in case I need a backup plan, like you mentioned. That, and the fact that two of my siblings are getting married this summer. I could get away with missing one wedding, but two... they'd probably have my head. Speaking of family, have you stayed close with yours while living in different areas and traveling? They must really miss you. (Feel free to tell me that's none of my business)
Just out of curiosity, could you see yourself living in any of the places you've visited or does New York still feel like home?
Leslie
ME:
Leslie,
Wow, you really did it, huh? Excellent. I am not much of a planner but if you want to ease your way into it I might suggest eastern Europe, specifically the Baltic States (Lithuanian, Estonia, Latvia). I think the weather is nice at the time you will be leaving. You could also go Scandinavian to start. Wanna see a volcano? Head to Iceland. I've read that one of the results of their economic meltdown is a drastic reduction in prices. Of course, you are in Portland so you might want to head west. A Fiji-New Zealand-Australia circuit might be a good way to get your feet wet. Or just open a map, blindfold yourself, and point.
Not sure how much thought you've put into it but money can be a real pain in the pooper. Call your bank and ask them how much they charge for international ATM fees, foreign transaction fees, and currency exchange fees. It can really start to add up. There might be a bank out there that has reduced or minimal fees. Check for both ATM and credit cards.
If you have a debit card, I highly recommend you have it converted to strictly an ATM card. That way, if you lose it, some asshole will not be able to go hog wild.
I would bring two ATM cards from two different accounts and keep the cards in separate places. Link the counts for money transfer. That way if you lose a card you can go onto the internet and transfer funds from one to the other.
I would also consider putting a relative's name on one of your accounts. That way they could facilitate help in an emergency and they will have full access if you need something done quickly.
Bring at least two credit cards (check expiration dates) for back up. Although fees can add up (see above), it is sometimes a safer way to purchase tickets and excursions. If someone tries to screw you, you can always seek relief from you credit card company.
Ideally, it would nice to be able to carry a crap load of cash but if you lose it then you are SOL (shit out of luck). I would recommend carrying about $500-$1000 in cash. Make sure the bills are recent and pristine. Some less developed countries can be anal about the condition of US dollars. Have plenty of smaller bills also ($10s and $20s) as these could come in handy. Save your cash for emergencies and visas as many governments accept dollars and often have no change.
Travellers checks are secure and possibly useful in an emergency but to be honest they can be a pain in the ass. A couple hundred dollars still might be a good idea just in case. You also might want to consider an American Express credit card as their international services might be useful in a pinch. Luckily, I've never had to avail myself.
Bring an unlocked cell phone (one in which you can just throw in a new SIM card) as it will come in handy, especially in Asia and Africa. For much of my trip I was calling home on my phone for less than 10 cents a minute. Bring a cheap phone and assume you will lose it. It is quite easy to buy inexpensive phones abroad.
Enough of that for now. If I think of other stuff, I'll pass it along.
I do not have much of a family but I have managed to keep in close contact with my mother. It has been easier than I thought it would be but this will depend on where you are.
I have not found any place I would like to settle down, but then again, I've spent the majority of my time in the Third World. Still searching....
How's Portland? I have always dreamed of living out west, although I have no idea what I would do. Maybe when you return you can hire me as your personal assistant. I'll probably be living on the street.
Could this be any longer? If you want we could speak on the phone some time. It would probably be easier than writing obnoxiously long e-mails. Just a thought. Things tend to occur to me as I speak.
I hope all is well with you. I am envious. Planning the trip can be half the fun.
Rich
LESLIE:
Thank you for the suggestions and great advice; I appreciate it more than you know.
At this point, I’m trying to absorb as much information as possible. My previous trips took me to SE Asia (Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and Malaysia, to be exact), but they were brief and therefore, my preparation was limited. Losing a little money at the ATM was of little consequence and phone calls were few and far between. This time, it will be a much different ball game. Hopefully, with a little homework and help, I’ll piece it together just fine. I'm bound to learn a few lessons the hard way... it wouldn't be my life, if I didn't.
Heading east or west is the big question. I will most likely head east, as it was the clear winner in my coin toss. Perhaps I should let that be the deciding factor for all future dilemmas? I think I might. :)
Are you still considering Turkey as your next destination? Just out of curiosity, how much longer do you intend to travel?
If your path leads you to the northwest, Portland is an interesting city. As a whole, Oregon is really beautiful. If you enjoy the outdoors, don't mind a little rain and like to kick back with a microbrew in hand, this is your city. Oh, did I mention that we have more strip clubs per capita than anywhere else in the US? If that's not a winning attribute, I don't know what is. On a serious note, though, it's a nice place to live. Supposedly, it's one of the cleanest and greenest.
Alright, I'll stop before this turns into a novel. My number is below. Feel free to call me anytime.
Take care,
Leslie
ME:
Hey there,
Just wanted to shoot you a short e-mail. I am in Abkhazia right now and will be headed into the mountains of Georgia for a spell. Not sure when I will have another chance to write. How much longer will I travel? Not sure. The whole “don't have a job don’t, know what the f%^& I am going to do afterward’ is starting to eat away at me a bit. That being said, having a travel pal might jumpstart my desire to shirk off reality for a bit longer. I am considering Turkey although I am not sure exactly when. I think now it is a bit warm. When I get back to Tbilisi I can probably give you a ring on Skype. It would definitely be good to talk. I hope all is well. Planning a trip can be almost exciting as taking one.
Rich
LESLIE:
I'm sorry to hear that you're feeling uneasy about your current situation. Going against the grain is never an easy thing to do, but you already know this. It's so easy to fall into the cookie cutter lifestyle. Here, you're surrounded by it. Everything and everyone seems to point towards the path of accumulation, debt and the daily grind. If you don't have a job, a house and picture perfect family by thirty, you must be some kind of (bleep) up. Even when you create your own path, you still feel its tug. How do you shake something that's been so deeply ingrained? I don't know if it's possible, but I certainly hope so.
I hope that whatever you're feeling right now, you don't lose sight of how lucky you are. Not just for having the opportunity to travel, but for everything you've accomplished thus far. Who cares if you didn't become a successful lawyer; you completed law school and passed the bar and that's something to be proud of. So, you didn't finish your time in the army... that's okay, too. You signed up and gave it three and a half years. That's a long time in my book and that's more than most people will ever do. At thirty-five, you've experienced more than most people will in their entire lives.
I realize this email will probably come off as an unsolicited pep talk and for that, I apologize. I'm not usually the pep talk type, but I can assure you it's with the best of intentions. I am naturally pretty hard on myself and it seems that you are too. I just want you to know that from an outside perspective, you seem like a genuine person and whatever lies ahead, whether it's on the road or at home... I'm sure you'll be okay.
Enjoy your time in the mountains. Lets talk when you get back. If you're interested in having someone to travel with, perhaps I could join you.
Take care,
Leslie
ME:
Hey there,
Sorry for the belated reply. Just now catching up on e-mails. Thanks for the pep talk. I do appreciate it. I may be able to use Skype to give you a call some time. I figure the time difference may be a bit of a hindrance. Actually, the internet connection may be a problem as well. What would be an ideal time to call? My immediate future is a bit hazy at the moment but perhaps we might be able to meet up (notwithstanding another existential panic attack). I hope all is going well with preparations. Hopefully, we can talk soon.
Rich
LESLIE:
You're right. The time difference may be a little tricky. Anytime after 7:00 PM (your time) on a Saturday or Sunday evening, might be our best bet. That way, you can catch me on a morning when I'm not at work. If that's inconvenient, you can always try another time. You never know, I just might answer.
Leslie
ME:
Hi Leslie,
I just tried calling you. I figured I would give it a shot. I am curious about your plans and where you are with Operation: Escape. If you want to call me, my number is +49 15 12 79 21 019. I am in Germany right now. I realize the cost of a call might be a bit excessive but I thought I would give you my number in case you want to use Skype. You can call me anytime. Otherwise I will give it another shot. I hope all is well with you.
Rich
LESLIE:
So nice to finally talk to you, Rich. It's nice to know that you're doing well. Germany sounds like a nice place to come down from your Denmark experience. I'm sorry that didn't turnout the way you had envisioned. You know, if you ever need someone to lend an ear, I consider myself a pretty good listener. Not that you're in need of that, but I'm just throwing it out there...
Hope you were able to get some shuteye last night.
Take care,
Leslie
LESLIE:
After much consideration, Turkey it is. What are your thoughts on joining me?
ME:
Hey there,
Turkey, huh? Cool. It would be great to meet up. When do you arrive? Right now I am trying to figure out what to do next. I will probably head to Prague for a bit. After that? Who knows? I have a friend in Tajikistan that wants me to visit but he is not free until October. When you have concrete plans, let me know. Even if I do not meet you initially, I can always track you down. ;o) I do want to go to Turkey and it would certainly be nice to have a partner. Keep me posted and I will start to draw a plan.
And thank you for the offer to listen. I do sincerely appreciate it, although you should be careful because I might actually take you up on it sometime. I hope your preparations are going well. I have found that preparing for a trip can be rather exciting. Let me know how it is going. I'm off to cruise around Berlin on a bicycle.
Rich
LESLIE:
I'm a little jealous. Taking a spin around Berlin sounds lovely. That's one of my favorite ways to see a new city. I hope you're enjoying yourself.
As for my departure, I'll be leaving Portland for Istanbul on the 22nd and arriving the afternoon of the 23rd. My ideal date was the 14th, but I secured a much better deal by waiting a week. My birthday just happens to be the 24th, so it's kind of fitting. A new year, a new adventure.
At this time last year, I felt like I was having a quarter-life crisis. The light at the end of tunnel seemed nonexistent. Fast forward to now and I feel much more optimistic. It's funny how time changes things. I couldn't be happier about taking this trip. You're right about the planning part. Even though I'm not plotting a course and ironing out the details ahead of time, I'm thoroughly enjoying other aspects. Reading and daydreaming might be half the fun. I also have a new affection for getting rid of things. I think my friends and family are seriously sick of me trying to pawn things off on them. Actually, acquaintances might agree with that statement too. My belongings fit neatly into a handful of Rubbermaid bins now. I never thought I'd see the day. It makes me feel a little insecure, but in a good way, I suppose. Who needs a toaster, anyways? :)
Sorry. If you haven't already noticed, rambling comes naturally.
Well, let me know how my arrival fits into your plans. Like you said, if it doesn't initially, we can always find each other along the way. I'm looking forward to it. It will be nice to finally meet you.
Leslie
LESLIE:
Just thought I'd check in and see how you're doing. Curious if you've given more thought to heading my direction. I can't believe I'm leaving in just ten days. I'm starting to feel a little nervous... I suppose that's normal, right?
Hope you're doing well.
Leslie
ME:
Well, you quit your job and are setting out by yourself on a vagabonding extravaganza for an indefinite period of time. Of course you are nervous. Who wouldn't be? I had to get the hell out of Europe for the time being but I am not so far away. I am in Tunisia for the moment. You will be in Istanbul, correct? I want very much to meet up with you so we have to keep in touch. Tunisia is fairly interesting so I will spend a little time here but I am not so sure exactly how much time. This will be a good time to be in Turkey as I think the weather will be a bit cooler. Let me think about a plan.
I will say this: No matter what happens give yourself some time to adjust (quite an epiphany I know). In all likelihood you will have that “what the hell am I doing what was I thinking” moment when you first arrive (then again, maybe not). Being tired will not help. My advice is to ease your way into as much as possible. If you have to stay in a nice hotel in the beginning then go for it. The key is not to let yourself get discouraged right off the bat. If you are absolutely miserable for two months then maybe life on the road is not for you but my sense is you are going to enjoy yourself. Actually, I am sorry I have not been more useful lately. Hopefully, you do not feel I left you in the lurch. I think it would be great to meet up. Having someone to share all this nuttiness would be a welcome change for sure.
I am a bit stable in Tunis for the moment. If you need anything let me know. And if you need to talk I am sure I can find a way to do that. I hope everything is going well. I am excited for you.
Rich
ME:
Hi again,
Although it is not that cheap (around 36 cents per minute with Skype or Google phone) feel free to call me if you want to talk. My Tunisian mobile number is 27 982 699. The country code is 216. You can call me anytime, day or night. Don't worry about walking me up. And if I am not able to talk I'll just let you know. Otherwise I can try calling you again. I just figure it is easier for you to call when it is convenient for you. I hope all is well.
Rich
LESLIE:
Thank you so much for your emails. Just reading them made me feel ten times better. I've been letting my nerves get the best of my recently, which is to be expected, like you mentioned. I really am excited, it's just hard to tell at the moment. I'm sure I'll snap out of it in no time! Sure, most of it is tied directly to my departure, but other family changes are playing into it too. Lots and lots of changes in the Peralta family... mostly good ones, though. It will be interesting when we all reconnect someday. Coming from a large family is both good and bad, as you can imagine.
I want you to know how much I appreciate your kind words and advice. A simple "thank you" doesn't really cut it. When I see you, I'll find a way to properly thank you. You've been so helpful, so please don't ever think differently. I have a crazy day tomorrow, but I plan on giving you a call Thursday or Friday. I'll keep it very brief, due to the cost on your end.
I sincerely hope you're having a wonderful time in Tunisia.
Leslie
Oh, just out of curiosity, does your laptop have a built-in camera and if so, do you ever use it for Skpye? I'm guessing you need a pretty good internet connection, but I know it's free. Just a thought.
ME:
Hey there,
No need to thank me. I am just glad I could be of use. As far as the expense of calling me… there is none. Unlike the the USA there is no charge for incoming calls so feel free to talk my ear off. I do have Skype and a built in camera. If we can make that work I am all for it. Two snags. I may not be able to get to the internet when you call and even if I do the connection may not be up to snuff. We can certainly give it a shot though.
My time in Tunisia? Wellll, for the first time I hit a major snag. Some miscreant pilfered my “wallet” (money clip with my cards and cash). I hesitate to share this with you as I do not want you to get discouraged. You must keep in mind that I was an idiot and unwisely decided to stuff my skinny self onto a crowded tram. Dumb. I will be kicking my own ass shortly.
I look forward to talking to you again. I hope is going well.
Rich
LESLIE:
Well, I made it here safe and sound! There were a few little hiccups along the way, but that’s to be expected. The flights were relatively painless and luckily, I was able to catch a little shuteye between Chicago and Frankfurt. I was exhausted earlier and took a very long nap... so long that I missed the opportunity to go out and have dinner. Thankfully, I had M&M's and a power bar - nutritious and delicious.
I got checked into my guesthouse in the mid afternoon and it’s rather quaint. It’s a small family run place and the daughter working the front desk is beyond helpful. I’ll be here until Sunday. After that, it’s anyone’s guess. From what little I’ve seen, Istanbul looks fantastic. I had the opportunity to explore the surrounding neighborhood on my way in, but not by choice. There was a traffic jam and my taxi driver, who didn’t speak any english, pulled over and let me out (without a map, mind you). He pointed up a cobblestone alley and made a few grunting sounds, so I just smiled and carried on. Luckily, I found it twenty minutes later with the help of a few locals. I kind of enjoyed feeling clueless. I’m just looking forward to feeling well rested, so that I can go out and explore, though.
Today marks my twenty-sixth birthday; another year has come and gone, again. I had a little emotional moment earlier, but it's passed. I'll blame it on a mix of exhaustion, hunger, and a slight case of the birthday blues.
Alright, well I just wanted to touch bases with you. I hope you're enjoying the excursion up north. I look forward to hearing about it when you return. I forgot my cell, so I plan to pick one up, along with a sim card. I'll be sure to send the info your way.
Take care,
Leslie
ME:
Hey there,
Happy Birthday! Did you get wasted? Probably not. I am glad to see you made it safe and sound. M&Ms and a power bar? Nummy. I can understand a burst of emotion. I've noticed that when I am tired problems are usually compounded exponentially. I normally try to reserve final judgment until I am better rested. I am sure it will pass.
Glad you have a good vibe about Istanbul. I have heard good things. You must keep me posted. As for me, my plans changed a bit. I am now headed to the south to frolic in the desert. I met an American named Phil that wants to check it out. As it happens, this is when he is available so I decided to amend my plan. It will be nice to have a pal, as well as cheaper. We are hoping to rent a 4WD and go balls to the wall. We'll see how that goes.
I am glad to hear that you made it and that you appear to be doing well. Contact me anytime if you need assistance. I will be in Tunis until Saturday night and then it is an all night bus to the south. I am not sure how much access to internet I will have but I will respond as soon as possible. When you get a phone and SIM shoot me a text when you can.
I look forward to meeting you,
Rich
P.S. I think Istanbul has Whirling Dervishes.
LESLIE:
My birthday has been interesting to say the least. I enjoyed a wonderful breakfast on the rooftop terrace of my guesthouse, bright and early. The sun was out and the view of cargo ships scattering the bay was a nice contrast to the cityscape. I took my time and made friends with one of the staff, Mustaf. I helped him practice his English, which wasn't half bad, and he taught me a few Turkish phrases that have suddenly slipped my mind.
After breakfast, I set out on foot to tour the city. I had intended to be gone a few hours, which quickly turned into all day. Seven hours of walking and my feet are still intact! I enjoyed lunch under the Galata bridge. Local fisherman cook up fish sandwiches right on their boats. It was a little hectic down there, but I loved it. I also befriended some Jordanians, who invited me to join them for tea in the park. It's seems to be the favorite pastime around here, so I was all for it. They attempted to teach me backgammon... it didn't come naturally. There was definitely a language barrier, but we managed to piece together a decent discussion of travel and politics. All in all, it was a good time.
Istanbul is really beautiful. Everywhere you look it's old meets new. I'm definitely going to spend the next few days here, but I might depart sometime next week. I think I'm in need of a slightly slower pace for a bit. Peace and quiet sounds nice. I haven't ironed out plans or a direction for that matter. Keep me posted on yours, because that will ultimately play into mine.
Well, I'm off to get ready for my evening. I met a local by the name of Bekir that's invited me to join him and a group of friends for dinner/drinks not far from where I'm staying. Should be interesting...
Leslie
Part two:
I saved my previous message as a draft, because the Internet connection was slow. Since then, I've returned from my evening activities. It didn't end on a good note. Shame on me for being naive. I've always considered myself a good judge of character, until now. I'll spare you the details, but let's just say I'll be more careful moving forward.Oh, I sent you a text message, but I'm not sure it went through. The country code is 90 and my cell number is 534 879 45 17. Look forward to hearing from you. Have a blast with your new buddy. Wish I could join you - sound like fun!
LESLIE:
Since I have a few minutes to spare, I thought I'd look into flights, before I head out. So, I'm thinking of heading your way Mon, Tues or Wed of next week. I think I'm going to make my way to Bozcaada tomorrow. I'll probably spend a few days there and then make another stop before heading back this way to catch a flight. The cost is the same for all three days, so no biggie there. Monday is an afternoon flight, while Tuesday and Wednesday are late evening. I guess it just depends on what you think will coordinate best with your schedule. Once again, if you need more time, I can always find ways to entertain myself in Tunis. It looks like those three days are definitely the best deal for a while. I'm not sure how much prices will fluctuate over the next few days. I'm guessing it would be wise to book sooner than later. So, let me know what your thoughts are... if you have any.
Good luck with everything! I hope you guys are able to piece something together since you made it all that way.
Take care,
Leslie
LESLIE:
Hey Rich,
I hope your morning is off to a good start. I feel surprisingly well rested for getting almost no sleep; you gotta love those overnight bus rides.
Below is my ticket information for tomorrow. Thanks again for offering to meet me at the airport. :)
Leslie