Batch 30 — The Great Sojourn — theNOSTOMANIAC.com

171 -Dougga & Hammam Mellegue (Northwest Tunisia)

Come the morning, we mounted the Punto and set out for Doooo-GA, hailed as “the best preserved Roman small town in North Africa” by UNESCO. (It designated the area a World Heritage Site in 1997.) It was a highlight of my Tunisian sojourn, as “enchanting” as the Lonely Planet describes it. The weather was optimal (mild temperatures and a refreshing breeze), the panorama pleasing to behold, the tourist population tolerable (notwithstanding the large group of obstreperous Chinese tourists), and our archaeologist-guide was knowledgeable and coherent…

Tunisia, Batch 30by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacNovember 27, 2019Dougga, Tunisia, swastika, Hammam Mellegue

172 - Jugurtha’s Table For Two (Ain Senan, Tunisia)

Why the hubbub? We assumed it was related to the area's proximity to the Algerian border and illicit smuggling operations. This, coupled with a “tourist safety priority”, might explain Big Brother’s nose up our cabooses. I’m guessing the local authorities (national guard and police) were wary of two Americans wandering alone. If I were a secret agent, I’d have to admit a cute redhead and a Fiat Punto make for one hell of a disguise/cover story. Bond… James Bond.

“The Tableland is a geologic feature known as an inverted relief. Millions of years ago, the hard limestone top of the mesa was actually the bottom of a valley…

Tunisia, Batch 30by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacNovember 26, 2019Jugurtha’s Table, Ain Senan, Tunisia, Sahara

173 - Tozeur - Chott El Djerid - Mos Epsa - Ong Jemel (Word Salad, Tunisia)

“Frogger[a] is a 1981 arcade action game developed by Konami and manufactured by Sega. In North America, it was released by Sega/Gremlin. The object of the game is to direct a series of frogs to their homes by crossing a busy road and a hazardous river.” (Wikipedia)

You're not the frog. You’re the asshole the frog is trying (marginally, as it were) to avoid. There’s a shitload of frogs, a chaotic frenzy of frogs modulating both speed and direction in ways impossible to predict.

Tunisia, Batch 30by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacNovember 25, 2019Tozeur, Chott El Djerid, Mos Epsa, Ong Jemel, Tunisia

174 - Hertz So Good (Chebika, Tamerza, and Mides - Tunisia)

Chebika, Tamerza, and Mides. What are three ancient Berber villages nestle inside mountain oases north of Tozeur? The original settlements were abandoned after torrential flooding in 1969. New villages were established nearby, but these are fairly modern and bland. I thought we might have to rely on Punto Power but the road is excellent all the way to Mides.

First up: Chebika. We drove right past. The road through the palm grove seemed promising but the parking area outside the village looked like a used Land Crruiser sales lot. I estimated more tourists than palm trees. Buh-bye..

Tunisia, Batch 30by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacNovember 24, 2019Chebika, Tamerza, Mides, Hertz, Tunisia

175 - Return To Ksar Ghilane (Sahara, Tunisia)

Following dinner, we spent the evening frolicking in the dunes under a waxing, wobbling moon. Enter two bottles of wine, two gin and tonics, and a smidgen of vodka. Wobbling moon, you say? I’m sure getting smashed was a factor, but that, combined with atmospheric idiosyncrasies, made the moon vibrate ever so in the black of night sky. It was fucking mesmerizing, made more so by passing clouds. I had to remind myself I hadn’t swallowed psychedelic mushrooms… had I?

And then there was the goddamn lightning. Off to the north, just above the horizon, was a silent, thunderless light show courtesy of Mother Nature. It was magnificent to behold…

Tunisia, Batch 30by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacNovember 23, 2019Ksar Ghilane, Sahara, Tunisia

176 - The Great Mos-KAY! (Kairouan, Tunisia)

fter parking, Mr. Mos-KAY caught up and led us in the opposite direction of the mos-KAY. (I discovered this later). He was, no doubt, trying to steer us to his or a friend's shop. He also tried to tantalize us with the prospect of visiting a shitload of mos-KAYs throughout the medina. His plan fell through when two cops showed up on a motorcycle, forcing him into the shadows, ninja-style. The nice policemen pointed in the right direction but not before warning us (in French) about seedy types like Mr. Mos-KAY.

I regret to report the Great Mos-KAY of Kairouan was underwhelming. The prayer-mat-littered, slightly unkempt condition…Read More

Tunisia, Batch 30by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacNovember 22, 2019Kairouan, El Jem, Tunisia, tunis